24 Jun 2020

[Tutoria] Painting white marble

Following the preview pics from last week, I tried to remember to take pictures of the step to paint the marble and I did yeay!
As a quick reminder, here is the back of my tank
Suite à l'article de la semaine passée et suite aux nombreuses demandes sur le marbre, voici enfin un nouveau tuto pour reproduire cette effet!
Pour rappel, voici le dos de l'exorcist.

Keep in mind there is nothing revolutionary here and there are many tutorials online, but this is just my interpretation of the process after failing the baby wipes method to be honest (which left me with tiny hairs all over the surface...). 
I'm still a beginner with the airbrush and my mastery over this tool is fluctuant at best.
Encore une fois, il n'y a rien de révolutionnaire ici étant donner que de nombreux tutoriaux existent sur le net, mais c'est juste ma propre interprétation du processus après un échec avec les lingettes bébés et l'aero qui m'a laissé des petits poils partout sur la surface.
Je ne suis toujours pas au point avec l’aérographe et je ne l'utilise probablement pas suffisamment pour vraiment le maîtriser.

Here a process you can easily recreate with only a brush, and you don't need many colours; as always feel free to experiment with other colours, this is just one example that work with my scheme.
Voici donc un procédé facilement réalisable entièrement au pinceau, les copains sans aero apprécieront ! Comme toujours c'est juste un exemple et un choix de couleurs adaptés à mon schéma, n'hésité pas à expérimenter avec d'autres couleurs!

Without further ado, let's start! 

Paint used for this example: 
Les peintures utilisées:
  • Scale artist Pearl grey
  • Scale artist White
  • Daler & Rowney FW Dark green ink
  • FW Black ink

1. Give it a smooth coat of Pearl grey, it usually required 2 to 3 coats
Je commence par une couche de base de pearl grey en 2-3 passages dilués pour avoir une surface lisse

2. Roughly highlight the upper edge following a zenithal light with a mix of pearl grey and white
J'éclairci rapidement les arêtes supérieurs avec un mélange de peal grey et de blanc, histoire de marquer les volumes.

3. Time to make the veins, with a mix of 3:1 dark green ink to black, I draw random line over the surface changing the pressure on the tip of the brush.
You can use google to give you a reference of marble veins if you need it. 

Don't paint straight line but try to do many curves and edges almost like a little lightning.
We use the transparency of the ink to give depth to the veins, if you want to have darker vein, you can use pure black, lighter use pure green ink, you can also pass twice on vein to make them darker.
For small piece, I usually use just my mix green and black mix, but for example on the big marble piece on the back of the exorcist I used also black and green to have more variation since it is more visible.
C'est le moment de tracer les veines du marbre, avec un mélange de 3:1 de dark green ink et d'encre noire respectivement, je trace des lignes plus ou moins appuyé sur la surface de façon aléatoire.
Ce n'est pas une mauvaise idée d'avoir des images de référence google à coté de soit afin d'aider à réaliser ces veines. 

Ne peignez pas des lignes droites mais essayer de faire des petites vagues et angles un peu comme un éclair.
J'utilise la transparence de l'encre afin d'avoir plus de variations et de profondeurs dans le dessin du marbre, si vous souhaitez des veines plus sombres, n'hésitez pas à utiliser de l'encre noire pure ou la verte pour des veines plus claires, vous pouvez aussi repasser vos lignes pour les assombrir.
Pour les petites pièces, je n'utilise qu'un seul mélange mais typiquement pour le dos de l'exorcist, j'ai utiliser du noir et du vert pour créer plus de variations et d'intérêts à la surface.

4. Optional: Depending on the size of your piece or the effect you want, you can glaze you surface with pearl grey (brush or airbrush if it's a big piece), this will blend the veins with the basecoat then just repeat step 3 and you'll have different depth of veins on surface. I did this on the back of the exorcist because the surface is so big, I wanted to give it more interest, but I haven't done it on the small statue as I find it make it quickly "unreadable".
Optionnel: Dépendant de la taille de la pièce concernée ou de l'effet recherché, je fais un glacis de pearl grey (au pinceau ou aero à choix) afin de fondre les veines avec la couche de base et je répète l'étape n°3 afin de donner plus de profondeurs et d'intérêts à ma surface, ceci va créer des veines avec différents niveaux de lecture et donnera l'impression d'avoir une réelle épaisseur. C'est ce que j'ai fais sur le dos de l'exorcist, mais je ne le fais pas pour les petites statuettes par exemple. Faites attention à ne pas trop en faire, sinon la surface deviens illisible. 

5. It's time to give definition, using the black and green ink mix, I shade the recess and underline all the edges. I also dilute this mix to max a small glaze at the bottom and wherever I judge necessary to have more define volume.
Je viens définir mon volume avec mon mélange d'encre noire et verte, je marque les creux et souligne les arêtes pour faire ressortir les différents éléments. Je donne un petit jus dilué dans ce mélange sur le bas de la figurine et dans certains creux très prononcés pour donner l'illusion d'un éclairage zénithal. 

6. With the mix from step 2 of pearl grey and white diluted, I make a quick edge highlight on the upper edges. Just pick the edge which would receive more light, you don't want to highlight everything.
Avec mon mélange de pearl grey et blanc, je reviens marquer les arêtes supérieurs qui sont les plus exposé sans éclaircir toutes les arêtes toujours dans le but de donner une meilleure lecture du volume.

7. Final step with no picture since I haven't done it yet, is to give a nice coat of gloss varnish and you're done!
L'étape finale (sans image vu que je ne l'ai pas encore fait) est une bonne couche de vernis brillant pour donner le coté brillant si caractéristique du marbre.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and I'll see you on the next one.
J'espère que ce tuto vous a plu et je vous dis à la prochaine!

Until next time!

10 Jun 2020

Adepta Sororitas - Order of the Ashen Veil

Jumping back in time to the release of the daemon hunter codex in 2003 (gosh that's a long time ago😵), I said to my gaming group I will start a sororitas force the day GW made them in plastic.

And to be honest, I kinda lost hope it would happen one day, until 2 years ago following the first massive survey they ran and so many people ask for the release of plastic sisters.

Two years is a long time to keep your motivation and interested, I went back and forth on them not knowing if I really wanted to start a new army after painting my primaris. 
But in the end the miniatures where so nice and so much to my liking, I couldn't help myself. 

Not everything is perfect, but after the very flat primaris, I happy to return to something that is much more 40k for me, much more grim dark.

After this decision, I had to debate with myself, whether to go for one of the main order or to do something different. I really loved the bloody rose but I didn't want to paint another red army. 

I decided to challenge myself to try something new and different from my usual painting. 
I choose a yellowish bone armour, with a bright dark blue to contrast, the colours are opposite on the colour wheel.
Since the armour has a yellow tint, I choose to do the metallic in old cooper to have different tone,

Following my brainstorming, I quickly went to work on a test subject.

For the base, I tried to represent a luxurious planet similar to catachan or naboo with the ruin of ancient temple where the sororitas are sent to bring the population to the imperium.
I know a few of people aren't convinced with them, but the universe is vast 😜

Next I started working on my first squad, so many details and a few more textures and colours to decide. And learning how to do marble, since I haven't done any marble in like 15 years.

I'm really like the look of the squad, though in the end, I choose not to do the order symbol at the bottom of the cloak and corrected my test model.

I needed a HQ and what better hq than the canoness, the original and only sororitas leader !
I made a small modification to the miniature since I wasn't a fan of the original head, I used one of the sequitors head from AoS instead.

Let me present you Canoness Georgina in all her glory

Since I've got the army box and received a few kit for my birthday, may more are coming but those miniatures takes times so, you'll have to be patient to see the rest 😝
As a small teaser, I'm working on this bad boy now...
I will take picture for the next marble I do, since I've been overwhelmed by the return I had on this one 😅 

Until next time

28 May 2020

What's new and general hobby update

Hello dear readers!

It's been some times since the last post; a general lack of reel motivation to paint or write, problem with taking proper picture for tutorials and the corona quarantine mean this blog has been mostly left to collect dust. like really it's been 3 month

But on the bright side, there is still a constant flow of people checking the blog for whatever reason. I find it fascinating and a good sign, so thank you everyone!

Since I'm really late on my update, here is everything I've been working on since February (wow that was a long time ago...).

One of the biggest project I've ever worked on for fantasy is the Tauralon from the stormcast

I really like fantasy beast in general and since I need a lord arcanum for my sacrosanct chamber, this was the perfect excuse to have a big centrepiece.
Though in game, it's not the same as is rule are a bit lackluster but it's alright.

I wanted something really colourful, but not garish. I had no real idea what I wanted to do so I was mostly choosing colours I liked and find a way to make it works together.
In the end, I'm happy with the result even if a few things could have been better.
My photobooth was too small for this model so I had to resort to other mean, in this case, a simple black t-shirt as a backdrop.

On the conversion side, it's a mix of the two rider found in the box with the head from the sequitor, I added a collar made from aventis head and that's it mostly. A simple conversion to make this model mine :)

Second unit complete!

I finally finished the liberators I started in January, that's where I realised the armour takes a lot of time, but again really moody result.
This mean I now have the basic 1 hero, 2 troops to play age of sigmar, hooray !

The next unit for this army will be the dracothian guard because I really love them.
Here is a small sample

Still in the age of sigmar setting, I've tried Warcry for the first time this week-end and honestly that was a blast and probably the best games I had in a long time !

I challenged myself to paint my warband for the first game, so I had one week to do it. Of course I failed.
They took me 10 days since I've been much busier than expected but it was a fun experiment. Proving also that I'm unable to do speed painting

No conversion this time, but I tried the metallic base and ink on top combo. I do love the result !
Everyone of them has a different skin tones by the way, fun experiment.

But my first love since they have been revealed are the unmade, so as a reward for successfully completing my certification and finishing my first warband, they are coming next week!

I'll keep my new sister of battle for the next article ;-)

Thank you for reading thus far and until next time!

27 Feb 2020

[Review] Krycell Precision Ice and snow - ultra snow product

FULL DISCLOSURE - I didn't pay for this product, Krycell sent me two bags of ultra snow to review it, following my first review from 2018. Now you know everything.

Flash news, this article was supposed to be published at the beginning of the month, but as I was properly blessed by father nurgle and I was sick in bed for more or less two weeks so my schedule has been put to rest, much like me. Allergies season doesn't help either.

Seriously, I haven't been this sick in a long time
Alright, it's no secret that I really like snow base, particularly on dark miniature, it makes them pop, I look shiny and it’s always fun to do. 

So, when Krycell send my new a little bag of their new snow to review it, I couldn’t refuse! You can find my first review on their product here.

Let’s start with the basics and the product description:

The ultra snow is supposed to be functional for all scales, compared to the fine and extra one which are more oriented towards specific scales.
The presentation show it used with silicon to make a past which can be washed and put in place after curing, you can easily make trace in the snow. I let you the judge of the result but personally I think it looks great! You can clearly see the glitter of the all the little fragment on the video.

Here is the link of the presentation video to have a look by yourselves

Bag in hand, I wanted to experiment a bit with this product and what you can do with it.
To be honest, I had no silicon and was too lazy and sick to go buy some. Not a problem since I have quite a selection of products to make a few tests. Also, you can see the result in much better quality in the video.
Though, Krycell is working on an adhesive to replace silicon and it should be available soon.

Here is what I used: pva glue, uhu glue, water effect gel and krycell adhesive and some fine snow, more on that later.

Following this, a few pictures of this experiment

First quick test on a plastic pot, it’s black to have a better view of the transparent properties

Anamnesis studio
  1. Ultra snow mixed with water effect, it looks a bit brittle and it’s not really sticky, I wouldn’t not recommend this one
  2. Mixed with our trusted pva, the effect is interesting and easy to use, the bond is strong, and nothing move or rub off
  3. Same as the second but I sprinkled some ultra snow on top, it gives a fresh snow look
More test on a plastic base painted black.
Anamnesis studio
  1. Snow with uhu glue, work quite well but in this case very sticky, strong bond, quite transparent 
  2. Same but with a light sprinkle of snow powder on top, I also made an imprint in the snow with a boot, not the best since it’s sticky and the glue tend to level the mix
  3. Second test with pva and snow, second imprint test with the same boot, also hard because of the stickiness but it holds the print quite well
  4. Still pva but with a sprinkle of powder on top, the imprint is easier this time and the shape hold well, bond is strong
  5. Using the krycell adhesive mixed with the snow powder this time, work well and look more natural, though the bond is weaker, and the powder can rub off, but you can circumvent this with a coat of varnish at the end though
  6. Same as before but with a sprinkle on top again, the imprint work well and hold the shape, bond is the same as before, I recommend varnishing though
  7. Now, this one is a bit different I mixed krycell adhesive with the ultra snow and added a bit of fine snow. That’s probably my favourite result of the bunch and the one I used on my stormcast; you can see the result at the end
  8. Same mix of ultra and fine snow but with pva glue, similar result but I prefer the krycell adhesive for this one.
Anamnesis studio
Bonus pic, my mix of ultra and fine in the mixing cup, looks like a fresh avalanche, the reflection is beautiful and looks so realistic, the particles are shiny and react like a little diamond when you move the light around.

A proper example on my latest stormcast in her happy snow tundra using mix 7
Anamnesis studio

And this is the end of my review! As Krycell has been generous when they sent me 2 bags, I will be giving the second away on my Instagram with the instruction booklet so one of you can enjoy this fun product! This should last one week till the 5th March 2020.

You can find Krycell product on their website: www.precisioniceandsnow.com

Thanks to them for giving me the chance to review this product!

Until next time,