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10 Oct 2019

[Showcase] Sylvaneth Tree revenants

Alright wedding done, honeymoon was a treat, we can now go back to regular schedule after the craziness of the last few months.

There're still a few things I've finished and need to show but let's start first with a unit I was really looking forward to paint!

The "mighty" tree revenants! Mighty being a strong word since they do tend to die to a stiff breeze on the battlefield.

I started with a quick squad of fives, the point was to find a good balance between speed and result.
You can imagine, I was really dreading the blade as that's usually the longest part to paint.

The squad in all its glory
The skin recipe was tweaked on them since I didn't really have the time to think too much about it on the Arch revenant with the deadline for everchosen. 
I was supposed to do a tutorial on the skin, but I admit, I totally forgot this, soooo, next time?

The leader

Happy piper

George the standard bearer

Seeing the result, I'm really happy with the result, the standard is probably the coolest NMM I've done so far, but I really need to think twice if I want a second unit 😅

I still thinking about highlighting the black, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.

Expect a few more showcase next!

Happy painting !

20 Aug 2019

[Showcase] Everchosen Sylvaneth Arch revenant

Soooo it's been some time since the last article, it has been a rollercoaster of adventure with my everchosen entry and time for writing between the competition and preparation for the wedding was pretty low.

To make it quick:
  • my entry was at first, not valid for the competition,
  • then it was valid again
  • my store decided not to participate two days prior to the deadline because gw left them in the dark with no news whatsoever
  • decided to participate in another store 2h away from home
  • had like two days to finish the mini including the whole bug and the base
  • and to finish it I did drop the mini just before taking photo and it broke in four pieces, that at 1am
So, as I said, not a smooth ride.

But in the end, the mini was finished even if a few parts are clearly rushed and I even managed to win my category on the shop. Thanks again l’Ornithorynque in Neuchatel for accepting me!

I really tried to push myself on this mini, the NMM is probably the most advanced I ever done, the wood veins were drawn all over the place and I even had to sculpt a few pieces to accommodate for the modified pose.

It really is a great model and to be frank, I’m very unhappy with the rushed end, you can clearly see those parts are not on pare with the rest of the model and it bother me to no end.

Starting from massive spike of motivation to finish in frustration, I’m not sure I’ll do anything similar anytime soon.

But enough ramble here are the pictures!

If you enjoy my piece, feel free to vote for it on the Warhammer community website, displayed pictures are random but you may stumble on mine 😊 

Winning entry!

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Close-up and different angles

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As a small reminder, a full tutorial on the blade is available free on the blog and you can find the step by step for the base, bark and leaves also in their respective links !

Cheers !


10 Jul 2019

[Tutorial] NNM magical blade

So, following the pictures posted on social media, I had a few people requesting a tutorial for my magical blade on my arch revenant.
Following the waves of the crowd (keep dreaming dude...) I took all the pictures needed on the second side, woohoo!
Keep in mind, the point is not to make a very realistic metal, but a magical fantasy blade.

Bon après, les retours positifs et les requêtes sur les réseaux sociaux, voici le tutoriel sur le glaive en non métallique sur mon arch revenant ayant profité du deuxième coté pour faire les photos qui vont bien !
Garder en tête que l’objectif n’était pas de faire un métal réaliste mais bien une arme fantaisiste. 

Objective - Objectif:
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Disclaimer: This tutorial is the first with this kind of technique and I wouldn't dare to say I have mastered it, it's still the second time ever I tried it, so it is far from perfect, but it should give you an idea of the process and how to do it.

Avertissement : Ce tuto est le premier sur ce type de technique et je ne prétends pas qu’il soit parfait, loin de là, cependant cela vous donne une idée du procédé, n’hésitez pas à l’adapter selon vos besoins ou votre niveau.
Sans plus attendre, on attaque !

Without further ado, let's dig in !

Paint used - Peintures utilisées

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Scale 75
Hastur purple
Despair green
Caribbean blue
Hykey yellow

Kimera kolors
Carbon black
Schmincke primacryl titanium white

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1. Give a nice and smooth basecoat of Caribbean blue. I find easier to start on a light basecoat and shade it than the opposite in this case.
Première étape, on prépare une jolie couche de fond avec du caribbean blue bien propre. Je préfère partir sur une base claire qui me semble plus facile pour travailler dans ce cas.

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2. I sketch my light using hikey yellow drawing fine line following the sense of the blade. On the big flat base, I try to do one big highlight and a second smaller one next to it. 
I alternate the light on the different surface of the blade, the effect works best when you have light and shadow next to each other.
J’esquisse rapidement mes lumières avec du hikey yellow en traçant des fines lignes dans le sens de la lame. Afin de donner plus de réflexion à la surface, je fais un éclaircissement principale large et un petit adjacent plus fin. J’alterne les zones de lumière et d’ombre afin de bien délimiter ces surfaces.

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3. Next it's time to roughly block the shadow using hastur purple, on the opposite part of the light and in between them to create a play between light and shadow. The consistence is a bit more diluted than a basecoat but not as light as a glaze, we will refine the transition later.
Je bloque rapidement mes ombres avec du hastur purple bien dilué à l’opposé des zones de lumière afin de créer ce jeu d’ombre-lumière qui va donner l’effet métallique à la fin. Le but est de vérifier que les alternances fonctionnent avant de travailler plus détails l’effet.

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4. Seeing that the alternate colours are working, I deepen the shadow with hastur purple pulling my paint toward the darkest point. I started smoothing the transition using despair green diluted to draw fine line between the caribbean blue and hastur purple.
Etant content avec mon esquisse, je renforce les ombres avec du hastur purple toujours en tirant ma peinture vers la zone que je souhaite plus sombre. Avec du despair green bien dilué je commence à travailler gentiment ma transition entre l’hastur et le bleu en traçant de fines lignes.

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5. Second pass of fine line with despair green, some are longer to give a sense of movement to the sharpness of the blade.
Then glaze the transition from despair to hastur purple with despair green pulling the paint from light to the darkest point.
Deuxième passage de despair green avec de nouveau des lignes, je fais attention à ne pas les faire toute la même taille afin de créer de la variété. Je profite aussi de ce moment pour faire des glacis de despair green entre le hastur purple et mes lignes pour affiner le passage d’une couleur à l’autre.

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6. Added some line with caribbean blue for the transition from despair to caribbean, doing some of them longer like before.
Je reprends un peu mes lumières en traçant des lignes de caribbean bleu entre la zone despair green et hikey yellow en tirant certaines un peu plus loin comme précédemment.

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7. With a mix of hikey yellow and white diluted, I follow the edge of the different surface to make them stand out. My line is a bit thick, I took a brush too big, but we'll be able to correct on the next step.
Avec un mélange d’hikey yellow et blanc dilué, je viens marquer toutes les arêtes pour les faire ressortir. J’ai été un peu fort sur le trait, je corrigerai ceci dans la prochaine étape.

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8. Refine the edge highlight with a second pass, I took the time to smooth the line going back with the appropriate colour to correct and refine it. We're starting to see something!
J’affine les arêtes avec un deuxième passage et j’en profite pour reprendre mon trait grossier en corrigeant avec les couleurs adjacentes nécessaires. L’effet commence gentiment à venir.

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9. To reinforce the light point, I took my hikey and white mix and draw very fine line in the middle of the strong line.
Je renforce les points de lumière avec le mélange de jaune et blanc et trace de très fines lignes au milieu de mes points de lumières principaux.

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10. To soften the white edge highlight, I lightly glaze hastur purple and caribbean blue on the edge following the colour on the blade. I went a bit too far around the hand as you can see.
Afin d’atténuer les arêtes trop blanches, particulièrement dans les zones plus sombres, je fais des glacis d’hastur purple et caribbean blue selon les zones concernées. J’ai été un peu fort sur la partie haut du glaive, bien visible sur la photo en gros plan.

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11. To give some reflection in the shadow, I sketch some light using magenta and white under or over the main light point. This will give some interest in the shadow and give an idea of the reflective capabilities of the material.
Pour égayer les zones d’ombres et apporter une certaine brillance à mon arme, je viens faire des points de lumières dans les zones d’ombre avec du magenta mélangé avec du blanc en suivant mon point de lumière sur la surface opposée. 

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12. Smooth the previous sketch with magenta diluted, pulling toward the dark part. You may need a few passes.
J’affine la transition avec des glacis de magenta dilué que je tire vers la zone sombre en plusieurs fois.

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13. Time for the light point! Using diluted pure white I trace a very fine line in the middle, add a bigger point next to the edge where the light would catch on.
C’est le moment des points de lumière finaux. Avec du blanc dilué, je reviens sur mes zones de reflets en traçant une ligne fine au milieu de l’éclaircissement, j’ajoute un point plus gros sur la partie directement à côté de l’arête.

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14. That's purely optional but I like to add scratches on my nmm to give it a more "realistic" look. Using a mix of purple and black I draw some lines around the edge where scratches would come.
Ces étapes sont purement optionnelles mais j’aime ajouter des égratignures afin de leur donner un effet d’usure. Avec un mélange de violet et noir, je réalise des traces réparties sur les zones qui s’abime.

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15. To finish the scratches, underlines the dark line with pure white, pulling the line a bit further than the black to give it some definition. I also add some lines just of white to do lighter scratches.
Pour finir, je viens souligner mes lignes sombres avec du blanc pure, en tirant la ligne un peu plus loin que celle de noir afin de donner l’impression de profondeur. Je fais des marques plus claires avec simplement des lignes de blanc.

And there you go, full step by step of my magical blade, hope you enjoyed this read and feel free to comment down below!
Et voilà, un tuto de plus ! J’espère que vous le trouverez utile et n’hésitez pas à commenter ci-dessous !

This paintjob is a bit more elaborate than before, the idea was to present this piece to the everchosen competition but apparently, it's not a valid mini. I'm waiting on clarification on this, but I'm a bit saddened by this decision.
J’avais prévu d’entrer cette pièce pour la compétition everchosen, c’est pour que ça que j’ai poussé le schéma et mes techniques, mais ce n’est apparemment pas une figurine autorisée, j’attends une prise de position de gw là-dessus mais je dois avouer être un peu déçu.

Anyway, see you soon and as a preview, I'll do a tutorial on the purpl-ish skin also.
Je vous dis à bientôt et le prochain tuto devrait concerner la peau violacée sur mes sylvaneth.

Thanks for reading thus far!
Merci d’avoir lu jusque-là !


28 Jun 2019

[Showcase] Starting Sylvaneth - Dryads and Branchwych

Hello dear readers!

Busy month and heat mean it has been some time since the last article, but here I am again!
I was planning to redo the design of the blog, but it will come later.

Since I've sold my nighthaunt, I needed a new army for AoS.
I love the sylvaneth aesthetic and the new battle tome announcement plus the arch revenant miniature just convinced me if I ever needed any help. (N.B., I don’t) 

As side note, my mate confidence on painting an army has been boosted with contrast paint, so the new challenge is to finish 1000 points each for age of Sigmar by the end of the year!
Expect to see NMM for this army to keep the organic feel, I’m no Lan, but I’ll try to my best to have a convincing effect.

You saw the first few dryads for testing the scheme on my last two tutorials, the process is still in evolution but it’s getting better and faster.

Here is the complet squad for my first entry! 30 are still waiting to be build… few.

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And the old batch

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Even with the kit being a few years old, I still really enjoy painting them. Cleaning them is another story, removing the mould lines on the branches is a right pain. 
You can play "Spot the difference" between the fresh batch and the last one if you're bored, a few things are different.

Lady of the wood

I started the branchwych after the first 5 dryads, choosing to complement my painting scheme proved to be a difficult task to say the least and I’m still fiddling with it. Many things had to be repainted a few times to find something I was happy with. 

I tried to include as many nuances as possible in the blade, to have something magical.
To differentiate the hand of the blade, I painted a softer wood like birch with a warmer tone, which contrast with the black “hands”. Fuchsia was used for the hair just because the paint is really nice, simple choice!
I made a tiny waterfall on the base to see how it worked after seeing something similar on Instagram, inspiration is everywhere!

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Not everything worked as I thought but the mini is finished! Mainly, the spite is a bit rough.

Hope you stay with me on the road to painting 1000 points of sylvaneth since it's already mid-year and I need to move quickly now!

So, what’s next in the pipeline?
A tutorial on the blade will be made as requested on social media.
I’m also planning on entering the Everchosen competition with my Arch revenant, an article about painting for “competition” standard and my train of thoughts on the subject will probably be written.
As always, if you have any subject you would like to see, feel free to write them in comment!

Thanks for visiting the blog even with no new article and see you soon-ish!


10 May 2019

[Showcase] Primaris Librarian and Inceptors squad

Hello dear readers,

It has been some times since my last post, I wasn't very inspired to write so I wrote nothing…
Even in this state, the blog received quite a few visits daily since we’re closing on 50’000 visits!
So, thank you for your interested!

Just to be clear, I haven’t stop painting, but I’ve been building a lot of stuff, meaning I had nothing to show really.

My head is a bit all over the place between the conversion I have in mind, what I’m painting and what I’m planning, but I’m hoping to write some article on a few conversions I have in mind.

Since it will be the first of this kind, I’ll gauge the interest with the visit the article receives 😊

It’s time to show you my latest entry for my Knights of the Chalice army, first here is my second HQ and I should finally be able to deny the witch to my friend master of possession (I’m not annoyed, not at all…)

Here is brother epistolary Ymael, attached to the second company of the Knights

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I had to come up with an (almost) completely new scheme for this guy, librarians are usually blue, but I choose to paint the cloak red to be reminiscent of the rest of the army, I’ll do the same for my future chaplain and apothecary. Really happy with the result. 

I had some fun doing some freehand around the cloak before hiding it behind the weathering… yeay!
I didn’t know what to paint on the knee pad, I settled on the rank and quickly painted a little half skull on it. Job done! 

Since the spear is a force weapon, I wanted to have a different kind of glow than the usual power weapon, went for a reddish/pinkish tone with the power coming from the shaft, hence the white glow at the bottom.
The glowing eyes and hand were also something new, I let you judge if it’s successful or not.

Latest addition was the little special effect on the base, after reading Mephiston book and the description of the different spells, I tried to replicate the use of the blood of the enemies to power my librarian.
The blood going up is a mix of brass wire and fishing line with a drop of glue at the top, covered with blood for the blood god from gw, a hole was pierced on the base to hold the wire better.

For those curious, the weapon is from, they have a very nice selection of weapons for the different legion the cast are very crisp and the guy running the shop is very friendly!

Next up is the inceptors squad Erasmos!

I really like this kit though one of the members has a really strange position.
No conversion on this squad, I just made some higher base to get rid of those horrible transparent holders.

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Painting wise, it’s probably not my best squad, I had some troubles doing the right zenithally light regarding the position of the miniatures but at least they done.
The sooth was made by dry-brushing black paint around the exhaust.
Oh yes, you can’t see them, but I still painted the exhaust with a plasma effect, the little details…

And that’s all for today!

Next up on the painting queue is the redemptor dreadnought as requested by my follower on Instagram, then we’ll see! Some tutorials are also in the pipeline.
The resurgence of Sylvaneth is gaining my interested more and more, you may see some news on this front, who knows!

Thanks for reading and as usual you can follow my progress on twitter and Instagram link on the side of this page!

Until next time…