14 Apr 2021

[Tutorial] Lost temple base

Hello dear reader(s?),

Long-time no see!
The last blog entry date back from November, so it's been a while.

That was just before I became a father, so that's why I'm a bit busy and to be honest I had no real motivation to write any articles. The global situation and the general tension is getting a bit rough to handle and I find it hard to motivate myself to do anything.

I'm still amazed by the number of people checking the blog though and I'm happy my tutorials are still being used!

Trying to get back in the game and with the requests I received on social media, I made a tutorial on how I painted the base for my latest project, my daughters of khaine.

The idea was to have a something akin to a lost temple environment. I did experiment a bit to find the right balance, but I think this is quite nice while being really easy to do and replicate.
Which is really relaxing after the strain of painting nmm (seriously what the heck was I thinking).

Anyway, here is the result you can expect from this tutorial on my melusai Ironscale.

I’ll be using a simple 25mm base to show you the process.
I haven’t covered how to build  the base but it’s a piece of cork with a juweela concrete tiles on top, which have been weathered with a cutter and brute force, the side and crack are then filed with sandy paste of your choice (dry earth from ak in this instance).

Paint used:

  • S75 Brown leather or Ammo one shot primer brown oxide (good to prime with)
  • Vallejo Japanese uniform
  • Kimera kolors Cloudy sky
  • S75 Sandalwood
  • S75 Nacar
  • S75 Dark forest green
  • Vallejo green olive
  • S75 Autumn green

First step is to cover the whole base with the brown, s75 or ammo, they are very similar

Now as you may know, I love using sponging for bases, as I find it makes wonderful texture. So, grab a piece of sponge and start sponging Japanese uniform on the tiles.

Sponge again cloudy sky this time on the tiles again.

Touch up the sandy part with a bit of brown if you need and drybrush them with sandalwood

Very light drybrush on the sand again with nacar this time

Now for the messy part and to give the greenish tint to the base, we will be working with very diluted paint. I prepare 3 little pool of the 3 greens to have them available and mess around on the fly.

Start making little pool of dark green, then olive and light touch of autumn green, mixing them on the base and leaving them pooling in the recess as needed wanted. Make some pool on the tiles too to represent moss slowly growing on the stone. You can see it still wet on the picture.

Let it dry overnight or just 2 hours if you’re in Australia or somewhere similar. 

The small base and his bigger brother next to each other after a night of drying.

Finish the tiles with additional sponging of cloudy sky, try to be light and don’t cover all the previous work. Paint the rim black and you’re good to add all the grass you want!

I’m using a mix of tufts from rival craft, polak, mininatur of different colours but it’s entirely up to you 😊

I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial and find it useful, let me know if you need more precision in comments or just contact me on my social media

Until next time, take care!


2 Nov 2020

[Showcase] Warcry Iron golem, Unmade & scenery

So, it’s been a while since the last article again!

The global situation being a bit strange, my general motivation to write has been pretty low, mostly because I mostly work from home.
But I had quite a few people telling me they enjoyed reading the content of this blog and I thought it would be nice to not let it slip into oblivion, or not too deep at least…

On the plus side, I’ve been preparing the room for our first baby, which also mean my hobby time will be going down drastically at the end of the year but in the meantime, I painted quite a lot of stuff!

First thing the warcry starter set and an additional warbands so I have everything to initiate someone to the game.

I’ve played a few games and it’s quite fun and quick, which make it the perfect gateway game. AoS will remain my favourite system so far though!

I started with the iron golem to try to do something different and have as many skin tones as possible, that what also a fun exercise working with tinted metallic paint. I really enjoy them, and they did grow on me!

Colours used for the armour is a base of black metal, highlight with speed metal, then a coat of dark green ink from daler & rowney. 

The scenery has been painted trying to have them ready quickly will still being nice, mostly with spray can and drybrush, nothing special but it’s painted and look nice on the table 

The unmade were really speed painting, and that’s where I realised, I’m pretty bad at painting skin, I’m not really happy with the result and if I had to do them again, I would do something different. Also, they are really fragile, since I’m very clumsy I broke a few pieces…. 

Playing the game was a blast and I enjoy the quick pace, not so much playing against other warband not made specifically for the game as they can be a bit game breaker but it’s still fun! 

Now to catacomb or not, that is the question (I really like the scions of flame 🙈)

Until next time, happy painting!

28 Sept 2020

Adepta sororitas exorcist and colours rundown

 A quick article because I never posted the picture of this little tank after the tutorial for the marble, but I did finish it after many, many hours!

Nothing really new on this but as many people requested, is the rundown of the colours used for the different parts:

Main armour:
Base Petroleum grey, highlight Gobi brown, then white sands, pin wash of oil starship filth and pick the edge with white sand

Chipping is rhinox hide

Blue cloth:
Base dark prussian blue, highlight phtalo blue then blue green, finish by adding a touch of white.

Usual recipe. base with black highlight with dark sea blue then highlight adding white 

Decayed metal, wash strong tone, highlight with stippling a mix of pure copper and old copper, finish the edge with moonstone alchemy 

And you should have most of the recipe !

Fun fact, painting closed eyes is actually really hard...

I'll post later this week, an article more focus on my general hobby update and what's happening during those strange times.

Keep safe and happy painting !


24 Jun 2020

[Tutoria] Painting white marble

Following the preview pics from last week, I tried to remember to take pictures of the step to paint the marble and I did yeay!
As a quick reminder, here is the back of my tank
Suite à l'article de la semaine passée et suite aux nombreuses demandes sur le marbre, voici enfin un nouveau tuto pour reproduire cette effet!
Pour rappel, voici le dos de l'exorcist.

Keep in mind there is nothing revolutionary here and there are many tutorials online, but this is just my interpretation of the process after failing the baby wipes method to be honest (which left me with tiny hairs all over the surface...). 
I'm still a beginner with the airbrush and my mastery over this tool is fluctuant at best.
Encore une fois, il n'y a rien de révolutionnaire ici étant donner que de nombreux tutoriaux existent sur le net, mais c'est juste ma propre interprétation du processus aprÚs un échec avec les lingettes bébés et l'aero qui m'a laissé des petits poils partout sur la surface.
Je ne suis toujours pas au point avec l’aĂ©rographe et je ne l'utilise probablement pas suffisamment pour vraiment le maĂźtriser.

Here a process you can easily recreate with only a brush, and you don't need many colours; as always feel free to experiment with other colours, this is just one example that work with my scheme.
Voici donc un procédé facilement réalisable entiÚrement au pinceau, les copains sans aero apprécieront ! Comme toujours c'est juste un exemple et un choix de couleurs adaptés à mon schéma, n'hésité pas à expérimenter avec d'autres couleurs!

Without further ado, let's start! 

Paint used for this example: 
Les peintures utilisées:
  • Scale artist Pearl grey
  • Scale artist White
  • Daler & Rowney FW Dark green ink
  • FW Black ink

1. Give it a smooth coat of Pearl grey, it usually required 2 to 3 coats
Je commence par une couche de base de pearl grey en 2-3 passages dilués pour avoir une surface lisse

2. Roughly highlight the upper edge following a zenithal light with a mix of pearl grey and white
J'Ă©clairci rapidement les arĂȘtes supĂ©rieurs avec un mĂ©lange de peal grey et de blanc, histoire de marquer les volumes.

3. Time to make the veins, with a mix of 3:1 dark green ink to black, I draw random line over the surface changing the pressure on the tip of the brush.
You can use google to give you a reference of marble veins if you need it. 

Don't paint straight line but try to do many curves and edges almost like a little lightning.
We use the transparency of the ink to give depth to the veins, if you want to have darker vein, you can use pure black, lighter use pure green ink, you can also pass twice on vein to make them darker.
For small piece, I usually use just my mix green and black mix, but for example on the big marble piece on the back of the exorcist I used also black and green to have more variation since it is more visible.
C'est le moment de tracer les veines du marbre, avec un mélange de 3:1 de dark green ink et d'encre noire respectivement, je trace des lignes plus ou moins appuyé sur la surface de façon aléatoire.
Ce n'est pas une mauvaise idĂ©e d'avoir des images de rĂ©fĂ©rence google Ă  cotĂ© de soit afin d'aider Ă  rĂ©aliser ces veines. 

Ne peignez pas des lignes droites mais essayer de faire des petites vagues et angles un peu comme un Ă©clair.
J'utilise la transparence de l'encre afin d'avoir plus de variations et de profondeurs dans le dessin du marbre, si vous souhaitez des veines plus sombres, n'hésitez pas à utiliser de l'encre noire pure ou la verte pour des veines plus claires, vous pouvez aussi repasser vos lignes pour les assombrir.
Pour les petites piĂšces, je n'utilise qu'un seul mĂ©lange mais typiquement pour le dos de l'exorcist, j'ai utiliser du noir et du vert pour crĂ©er plus de variations et d'intĂ©rĂȘts Ă  la surface.

4. Optional: Depending on the size of your piece or the effect you want, you can glaze you surface with pearl grey (brush or airbrush if it's a big piece), this will blend the veins with the basecoat then just repeat step 3 and you'll have different depth of veins on surface. I did this on the back of the exorcist because the surface is so big, I wanted to give it more interest, but I haven't done it on the small statue as I find it make it quickly "unreadable".
Optionnel: DĂ©pendant de la taille de la piĂšce concernĂ©e ou de l'effet recherchĂ©, je fais un glacis de pearl grey (au pinceau ou aero Ă  choix) afin de fondre les veines avec la couche de base et je rĂ©pĂšte l'Ă©tape n°3 afin de donner plus de profondeurs et d'intĂ©rĂȘts Ă  ma surface, ceci va crĂ©er des veines avec diffĂ©rents niveaux de lecture et donnera l'impression d'avoir une rĂ©elle Ă©paisseur. C'est ce que j'ai fais sur le dos de l'exorcist, mais je ne le fais pas pour les petites statuettes par exemple. Faites attention Ă  ne pas trop en faire, sinon la surface deviens illisible. 

5. It's time to give definition, using the black and green ink mix, I shade the recess and underline all the edges. I also dilute this mix to max a small glaze at the bottom and wherever I judge necessary to have more define volume.
Je viens dĂ©finir mon volume avec mon mĂ©lange d'encre noire et verte, je marque les creux et souligne les arĂȘtes pour faire ressortir les diffĂ©rents Ă©lĂ©ments. Je donne un petit jus diluĂ© dans ce mĂ©lange sur le bas de la figurine et dans certains creux trĂšs prononcĂ©s pour donner l'illusion d'un Ă©clairage zĂ©nithal. 

6. With the mix from step 2 of pearl grey and white diluted, I make a quick edge highlight on the upper edges. Just pick the edge which would receive more light, you don't want to highlight everything.
Avec mon mĂ©lange de pearl grey et blanc, je reviens marquer les arĂȘtes supĂ©rieurs qui sont les plus exposĂ© sans Ă©claircir toutes les arĂȘtes toujours dans le but de donner une meilleure lecture du volume.

7. Final step with no picture since I haven't done it yet, is to give a nice coat of gloss varnish and you're done!
L'étape finale (sans image vu que je ne l'ai pas encore fait) est une bonne couche de vernis brillant pour donner le coté brillant si caractéristique du marbre.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and I'll see you on the next one.
J'espĂšre que ce tuto vous a plu et je vous dis Ă  la prochaine!

Until next time!

10 Jun 2020

Adepta Sororitas - Order of the Ashen Veil

Jumping back in time to the release of the daemon hunter codex in 2003 (gosh that's a long time agođŸ˜”), I said to my gaming group I will start a sororitas force the day GW made them in plastic.

And to be honest, I kinda lost hope it would happen one day, until 2 years ago following the first massive survey they ran and so many people ask for the release of plastic sisters.

Two years is a long time to keep your motivation and interested, I went back and forth on them not knowing if I really wanted to start a new army after painting my primaris. 
But in the end the miniatures where so nice and so much to my liking, I couldn't help myself. 

Not everything is perfect, but after the very flat primaris, I happy to return to something that is much more 40k for me, much more grim dark.

After this decision, I had to debate with myself, whether to go for one of the main order or to do something different. I really loved the bloody rose but I didn't want to paint another red army. 

I decided to challenge myself to try something new and different from my usual painting. 
I choose a yellowish bone armour, with a bright dark blue to contrast, the colours are opposite on the colour wheel.
Since the armour has a yellow tint, I choose to do the metallic in old cooper to have different tone,

Following my brainstorming, I quickly went to work on a test subject.

For the base, I tried to represent a luxurious planet similar to catachan or naboo with the ruin of ancient temple where the sororitas are sent to bring the population to the imperium.
I know a few of people aren't convinced with them, but the universe is vast 😜

Next I started working on my first squad, so many details and a few more textures and colours to decide. And learning how to do marble, since I haven't done any marble in like 15 years.

I'm really like the look of the squad, though in the end, I choose not to do the order symbol at the bottom of the cloak and corrected my test model.

I needed a HQ and what better hq than the canoness, the original and only sororitas leader !
I made a small modification to the miniature since I wasn't a fan of the original head, I used one of the sequitors head from AoS instead.

Let me present you Canoness Georgina in all her glory

Since I've got the army box and received a few kit for my birthday, may more are coming but those miniatures takes times so, you'll have to be patient to see the rest 😝
As a small teaser, I'm working on this bad boy now...
I will take picture for the next marble I do, since I've been overwhelmed by the return I had on this one đŸ˜… 

Until next time